Over one year after meeting, and many many months apart, my boyfriend and I took our first weekend trip together to Trang An. Upon arriving, I was struck by the beauty and serenity of the area. Small limestone mountains – nearly black, splattered with streaks of dirty-gold and covered with patches of dark green – rise up from the verdant, endless rice paddies. The scene, framed by meandering silver streams and capped by whispers of pink and orange, is utterly breathtaking. The only sounds are the gentle rustling of grasses in the evening breeze, the distant echo of a sputtering motorbike and random snatches of childish laughter. This feels like another time. Another universe even.